Saturday, June 5, 2010

Location: Vagator, Arambol, Mumbai, New Delhi. Date: 3rd June 2010

Above: Gate of India, Mumbai
Jared says: So with our computer glitch and therefore limited access to laptop we are gonna have to make the blog updates a little briefer now as we will be having to write them in internet cafes, which are generally cramped and sticky hot.
Vagator - after doing the city thing in Panjim we decided it was time to enjoy a bit more of Goa's famous tourist export, the beaches. The first one we decided to head to was Vagator, which along with Anjuna is supposedly where the foreign hippy scene started in the area way back when. With this in mind we were expecting the area to be a little busier than the south, with more expats and the like still around even though it was out of season. How wrong we were. On arrival on the local bus we were dropped about 1km from the beach and it was like walking around a ghost town as we headed to our chosen accommo destination.
As we had been sweating it out in cheap concrete box fan rooms for the past couple of weeks we decided to head for a resort to take advantage of the out of season pricing. Alcove resort that we picked out of the Lonely Planet was in a gorgeous spot nestled on top of a cliff with beach views. It had a pool and room service and all the trimmings, plus a well stocked bar which we over indulged in with a German couple that were staying next to us. Lucky for me, I could relax in comfortable air con surrounds as I nursed by far my worst hangover of the trip.


Arambol - After Vagator we were informed there may be a bit more life at the northern beach of Arambol. Upon arrival we were a little sceptical as the majority of shops in the main street where we were dropped had their doors closed for the season. Luckily we turned down the first couple of offers of cheap accommodation and headed to the beach where we were a greeted by a young boy who said "I have very nice, very cheap room for you". Liking the sound of that we headed off to have a look and found a very basic (a bed, a fan and a bathroom) room, but with a stunning view. From our room and our balcony we overlooked all of the beach and ocean and even had the waves crashing at the cliff base only metres from our doorstep. And all this for the minuscule 200rp (just over $6nz) per night. We spent three nights here in pure relaxation mode, eating at the local beachside restaurant (that served some great Israeli and other international food) and reading and swimming and talking with our neighbouring foreign travellers also lapping up the cheap accommo. It wasnt until the last night here that things started going a bit bad for me, with a sore gut and numerous trips to the toilet. The next day I awoke it was more of the same and we had a 12 hour overnight bus journey booked for that day. By the afternoon when things weren't getting any better we decided to head off to the doctor thinking we would be having to cancel the bus. I was quickly diagnosed with amoebic dysentery and was given an injection and a big heap of antibiotic pills to take. As I was feeling a little better (and hadn't been to the toilet in a while) we decided we might as well take on the bus journey.



Mumbai - After surviving a bumpy and restless nights journey we arrived in India's biggest city (17million) a little jaded but generally optimistic. We spent the majority of our time here relaxing, as I was still in recovery mode, but the time we did go out for walks we were more than impressed by the city in general. The English era architecture, a mixture of gothic meets indian, is amazing and the feel of the place is like any other city, with people going about their general business and far less staring at the funny looking westerners than we have encountered in other places. We also took advantage of the array of fine dining on offer in the area we were staying and in particular one night at a restaurant called Trishna we had some of the best fish and prawns we have ever had from a restaurant. It was kinda funny though us rocking up at these places with our shorts and t-shirts on with the Indians in their finest dinner attire. It was expensive dining for India, but the most we payed for a meal was 1400rp (about $45nz). Another thing we discovered in Mumbai was the beauty of the tourist counter at the booking office at the railway station. After arduous hours spent unsuccessfully trying to book tickets previously, we were able to choose from a number of Mumbai to Delhi trains leaving the next day.



New Delhi - we took an ovenight express and were in delhi 18 hours after leaving. Travelling second class AC was a lot nicer (and pricier) than the sleeper carriages we had previously braved, and it was a most pleasant experience, with dinner and breakfast served along with soup, desert and numerous cups of chai, although the food was very much of the bulk produced airline variety and lacked a lot, especially taste. Upon arrival in Delhi we were greeted by a wall of dust, as a dust storm had hit the previous night. This mixed in with the tourist area, Paharganj, where we were staying under full construction, the place resembled a bomb site. So it was quickly back to the rail tourist office and we were booked for a train the next day to head up to the hill station of Shimla. 10 hours of train travel ahead of us and we will be back amongst the hills and the cool air. It is peak Indian tourist time for this area, so we are a little apprehensive, but it has to be better than Delhi at present. Hopefully we will be able to check out this city further when we return from the hills in a couple of weeks time.

Vagator
Accommo: Alcove Resort - nice resort, nice food, but nothing too special for the price 1100rp ***1/2
Eats: Alcove resort - good food for a resort ****
Arambol:
Accommo: ???? - never knew the name or saw the owners after check in but great price and location 200rp ****
Eats: 21 Coconuts - good food at good prices and nice staff, though may have contributed to Jared's dysentery ****
Mumbai
Accommo: New Bengal - a little expensive and a little small with only fan 1450rp **
Benazeer - good price for Mumbai with AC and friendly helpful staff 1250rp ***1/2
Eats: Yokos Sizzler - the weirdest sizzler meal, with a base of rice top with fries and veges and coated with a brown onion gravy **
Trishna - a little pricey but absolutely delicious seafood ****
New Delhi
Accommo: Leo Hotel - Standard fare in the Paharganj area 650rp **






Jared in Vagator.

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